white shelves

Welcome to custom bookcases,I do both manufacture and fitting services of custom bookcases. I make and fit custom bookcases as well as paint and stain custom bookcases, free to inquire for your particular requirements.

Welcome to fitted custom bookcases. We have worked out of a unit in Romford, North East London since 2007. We specialise in making and fitting custom bookcases shelves. Our preferred materials are Oak MDF and Ply, depending on strength and design requirements. Lead times are usually 2 - 3 weeks. Prices are given on a job by job basis and you may inquire as the prices of previous jobs completed. Or you can click on book shelving prices. My address and contact details are:contact details

Or Email on mark-shelving@bookshelving.co.uk

Welcome to concealed brackets. I have both a manufacturing and fitting service available. Fitted concealed brackets can be finished in virtually any colour, so feel free to inquire for your particular concealed bracket requirements.
Fitted concealed brackets have worked out of a unit in Romford, North East London since 2007. I specialise in making and fitting concealed brackets. My preferred materials are Steal; Walnut; Oak; Birch; Mapel or any of the hardwood veneered MDF and Ply products, however when painting/spraying we will use MDF ply or pine depending on strength and design requirements. High gloss finishes both in the wood or paint finish are our specialty. Lead times are usually 2 - 3 weeks. Prices are given on a job by job basis so feel free to get your quote.
Why not consider turning your ideas for concealed brackets into reallity using information collected here? Most people when thinking of making concealed bracketsfor their shelves or even the brackets themselves are torn between which materials to use and for what purpose, using solid wood and the ultra thin, usually high gloss, or pretend wood bought at some high street stores for the shelf is questionable, but obviously your limited when it comes to the brackets themselves. Well there is an alternative.
There are various stages that have to be followed for the making of the shelves.
Stage 1: find the measurements of the shelves you require including the length width height and quantity.
Stage 2: Here you'll need to decide on the materials, this can simply be a question of money or finish. I'll explain: Solid walnut/oak is exspensive and requires lots of hard work to make it the right size and therefore fit but the finish will always be great regardless of it being painted or varnished etc. Or you could chose MDF which is much cheaper and also takes less work to make it fit and it's just as easy to paint and stain as walnut/oak. But ofcourse with MDF you run the risk that your shelf fail, due to excess loads. So walnut/oak is a cost=lose quality=win strength=win and MDF is a cost=win quality=win strength=lose. It would have to be excess loads that made a MDF shelf fail. So perhaps the middle ground is MDF with a strengthend core?
Stage 3: The fitting or putting together of your project is next. This happens with either fixings are bought somewhere or by using fixings you've made. I'd recommend using iron rods when it comes to floating shelves and good glue and screws when it comes to hardwood bookcases.

Stage 4: The fitting process is about preparation. First mark the position of the walnut shelf/bookcase.
Next level a line along the wall where the shelf/bookcase will be touching the wall.
Next drill holes where either the screws for the walnut bookcase is going or where the rods are going for the walnut floating shelf.
Next bang in your rods or wall raw plugs.
Next place the shelf/bookcase into position and with the walnut bookcase put the screws through the back of the bookcase into your prepared holes.
Next it is just a question of caulking or finishing of the seen edges that need a little filling to make everything look perfect.
However when it comes to the brackets in particular the methods used by professionals to fit wooden floating wall shelves with concealed shelf brackets vary. My methods have worked with some 1500 shelf installation over the last 3 years. Some refinements to my techniques were required in the early days, but this has left me with the information I'm about to share with you today.
The mistakes that all my apprentices make in the begin are probably much in line with most hobbyists in the beginining with their attempts. So by highlighting on one hand what's best to avoid and on the other best practices I'll be helping to avoid some of the common pitfuls/shortcuts often attempted by beginners.
Every trainee has upon hearing the instructions has proceeded with their much improved version of the instructions, this I believe is because, they cannot believe it requires that much accuracy just to fit some shelves! It is this reality check that is needed by almost everyone.
With this said, what you will learn to do eventually is...
1). level a line where the supports are to be fixed.
2). for 12mm threaded rod, use a 10mm masonary drill bit, and drill a hole into the wall in a position that fits between inbuilt supports inside the shelf.
3). hold the drill so that once the hole is complete, you could push a 10mm rod into the hole and place a level along the length of the rod, so your level looks like its sticking out of the wall like you would want the shelf to do.
4). now you'll notice the bubble in the level, either showing that the rod needs lifting or droping to make it level. My advice here is to drill the hole to start with so that your rod/levels bubble will need lowering.
5). this is the perfect position, having your rod needing to be lifted is the worst situation to be left with in regards to fitting rods for shelves. It is much easier to tap a rod down to almost level then it will ever be to try and tap one up!
At this stage you now have the most important information that makes the biggest differance to shelf installs.
The next most important is that each hole along the wall remains within 1-2mm in height of eachother, and I really do mean with 1mm to 2mm tolerance, violate this rule and you'll be doing it again.
Next is checking that all the levels between the rods are as about perfect as you can get, and use the level by laying across all the rods in differant directions untill your perfectly satisfied that the bubble in the level is not rolling side to side by even a bit. Levels already have a builtin tollerance and don't need you to assume that a little movement is fine.
I hope this helps? Drop me a line if any other factors arise that I've neglected to mention.

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